Sailing around Mull

Dave is a bit bored of rewriting things, so when this blog post didn’t save the first time round it took a while to get round to doing it again. However, here it is, and hopefully the rest of our trips since the summer will follow shortly.

In August, we found ourselves in Oban on the first sunny day of the season worrying about the lack of wind. We were about to take charge of a charter yacht and have a week sailing with Jo’s parents.

The first few days we had fantastic weather – warm, sunny, just enough wind to get along the long exposed and shelterless south coast of Mull  to a truly amazing anchorage and swimming near Iona with clear (cold) water and blue skies. After a short stop on Iona, the weather was perfect for a sail close around Staffa and Treshnish Isles, where we heard (and saw) lots of seals and birds.  We then anchored in lovely but quite space-limited and rather isolated spot off Gometra (NW Mull) and enjoyed a wonderful sunset.

The next morning our intended fast exit failed when we found all our batteries were flat.  The wind was getting up, and we didn’t really have enough chain out to stay where we were for long (but couldn’t put more out as we would swing onto the rocks). The crew of the other boat in the anchorage had gone ashore, but luckily we were saved from having to sail out of our enclosed bay in gusty winds by a couple of blokes from a nearby fish farm with a spare battery. I was just tightening up the spare battery when Jo shouted something about another boat being quite close. I thought nothing of this and continued connecting the battery until the message was that the boat was within a length of us. By the time I was on deck, the other boat was being pushed off the bow, and a quick check showed that it was them moving not us. By now the wind had picked up considerably, and while the fish farm boat had towed the drifting boat into the back of the bay, they couldn’t make it stick. It soon became clear that this runaway boat was in serious danger of drifting onto rocks/out into the Atlantic, and we didn’t know for certain if anyone was on board or not. On the advice of the coastguard, we carefully manoeuvred our yacht so that Dave could jump between the boats, which required some skilful helming not to ground our own yacht.

I found myself aboard a smart looking Vancouver 34 about to hit some rocks. Thankfully the key was in the ignition and engine started first time, after which I followed Jo to open water. I could then turn the instruments on, get the anchor up and clear the 1 m diameter ball of seaweed off the anchor. After having a few moments to collect my thoughts, I realised I was going to have to anchor this unknown boat single handed. The thought that letting it ground in the bay would be better than it drifting out to sea or being dashed against rocks gave me some comfort. Even once anchored, the excitement continued as I found (or rather didn’t find) the engine is switched off in an unusual place, so I was forced to leave the engine running. Jo did an excellent job of running alongside the anchored boat and picked me off at high speed with only minor bumping as the wind buffeted both boats.

By this time, the rain joined the increasing wind and it was an easy decision to head for Tobermory and a pontoon with little chance of dragging an anchor. Even then it was a long sail round, as we discovered hired sailing waterproofs aren’t waterproof,  although made much better by an entertaining evening in the Mishnish Inn courtesy of the owners of the rescued boat.

Next day we headed across Loch Sunart to Ardnamurchan.  This provided great sailing at first, but as we got further into the narrowing loch, we discovered our charter boat preferred not to go upwind in strong winds and it became rather exciting in a confined space.  We moored in a bay to visit Jo’s parents’ friends, again on a nice strong mooring buoy, and made the (in hindsight) silly decision to go ashore in dinghy.  The wind and waves stronger than expected meant that having got ashore, getting back to the boat was almost impossible and we had to stay ashore for the night and wait for winds to drop
in the morning to get back on board .

After the beautiful weather in the first part of the week, followed by the various excitements, the last couple of days provided some more traditional Scottish sailing, with wind, cloud and some sun. We spent most of the day beating along the Sound of Mull, but this was relaxing all the same.  The last day was sunny again, and with little wind, we drifted and played with porpoises for a hour or so.  Unfortunately, the drifting and associated motoring to get away from ferries and rocks meant that all the batteries were flat again.  We were rescued once more – an easy job this time as we were almost within spitting distance of the charterers.  We have concluded we had just been sailing too much, not using the engine enough and that electric windlasses are silly.

New Year in Glen Shiel

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Links to more Photos:
Dave’s Photos (trying flickr out)
Jo’s Photos (still struggling with picasa/google)

The most fresh snow we saw over our New Year trip to the Highlands was in Bradwell on the night before we left. Dave had arrived earlier that day to discover that the forecasts he had been using to deduce that we would be fine getting out in the morning unfortunately did not refer to the Bradwell in the Peak District, where in fact we were and where heavy snow was now falling. However, some pre-emptive action (leaving the car at the bottom of the hill) and some efficient gritting meant that we successfully escaped. In fact we were rather surprised to arrive first at Shiel Lodge, after narrowly avoiding being tempted out by a snowy, sunny Glencoe.

Luckily, that wasn’t quite all the sun and snow for the trip. We had a couple of great winter days out on part of the South Shiel Ridge and on the Three Brothers of Kintail, with snow-covered tops, some interesting ridgy bits and a whole day of alpine views. Best winter walking days for ages, and finally proof that the winter photos in the Munro book might actually not have been faked… It was also a good chance to practice a bit of snow examination and avalanche awareness without a howling gale for once, not to mention some boot skiing on the way down.

Inevitably, the snow all but disappeared and the rain and gales returned, but we managed to get up A’Ghlas-bheinn near Morvich and then Beinn a’ Chapuill near Glenelg on the two subsequent days. Both pretty wild but with surprisingly good views, and a splendid way to work up an appetite for DC and Mary’s excellent New Year’s Eve dinner! Even worse weather the next day encouraged us to get up late, enjoy a brunch of bacon, eggs and waffles, and later make a token effort by wandering along Loch Duich to the cemetery beyond Ratagan and going to visit the local llamas. We still got soaked.

On the final full day we ignored the predicted risk of whiteouts and thunder for a really quite pleasant ascent of Sgurr Airgid near Morvich. Increasingly windy and icy underfoot, but also wonderful winter light and snow-dusted views (at least when it wasn’t hailing), and all the better for being so unexpected. The light was so good that we went out again to inspect Eilean Donan – by which time, of course, it was dull and drizzly again, but we had fun nosing around the shore and the brightly-painted village of Dornie.

We bagged a final bonus Corbett on the way home: another glorious day, so we stopped at Kinlochleven to run up Garbh Bheinn and salivate over the Mamores. Another marvellous ridge (even if the steep nose was a little reminiscent of our scree-running-on-ice experience in Kyrgyzstan), and great to be among the mountains for a little longer.

So, some reward for the past three years of miserable Scottish winter weather – but hopefully that’s not it for another three…

Sun? in Scotland?!

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So for Easter, we got a bit excited, and after 8 hours of driving and looking at weather forecasts, we stopped at the Kings House Hotel (round the back on the old road, not actually in the hotel) for a few hours and then started up the hill at 3 am.  Amusingly, this qualifies as one of Jo’s earliest alpine starts.

The idea was that if the forecast snow had come, we wanted it frozen not slushy for the Aonach Eagach. In the end, there was no snow, only dribbles of verglas and an incredible dawn, with sunrise coinciding with us drinking hot chocolate on the first Munro half way along the ridge. Shame.

So after the rather fabulous start to the trip, we ambled along the rest of the ridge, picked up an ankle injury and got back to the van 12 hours after starting.

Dave soon found that although walking anywhere with boots on was painful, trainers were fine – so we were constrained to easy trainer walks. Although not ideal, this was better than nothing. We made the most of the sun, walking around the coast near Kentallan (south of Ballachulish) before heading across the Corran ferry. A quick wash in a river and we were presentable to walk into a posh pub/restaurant (the Salen Hotel) to meet Jo’s parents for dinner to celebrate their 30th wedding anniversary.

A great couple of days were then spent based at Druimnich on the south coast of Ardnamurchan, a small estate owned by Jo’s family friends Dave and Jenny Kime. After a short expedition around Druimnich (from the new jetty to the water butts, admiring the seals, viewpoints, vegetable garden, wind turbine and pine martens). We then explored Ben Hiant, Sanna Beach, Ardnamurchan light house (for ice cream) and Ariundle ancient oak woodland. We didn’t quite get on to the volcano – next time.  Weather was excellent, although the haze spoilt the views somewhat. There has to be some reason to return though!

It was a shame to come home in good weather, but we’d had a relaxing time (rather than the usual knackering) and the drive home was slightly more pleasant than the usual driving rain. Luckily there are some more bank holidays in the not too distant future.

Dave’s photos

Jo’s photos

Compacted Winter Skills

A couple of Saturdays ago, I headed up to Aviemore to run a winter skills course for some friends from CUHWC. Very soon (0830), the van broke down. Turned out to be nothing dramatic – just the brake pads rubbing, but as the breakdown service had lost my policy details we took all day to get back to Cambridge.

On Sunday we took a second attempt. This time in the Polo, with minimal gear, and all of us booked into a hostel. Success! We got to Penrith for the best bacon butties I’ve ever had, and got to the Cairngorm ski car park by 5pm. We jumped at the opportunity to spend an hour on a small snow patch going over the basics and stretching our legs.

As we had lost a day with the van breakdown, I was worried about trying to squeeze a 3 day course into 2 days.. Luckily the wind and snow conditions meant that going high and getting some Munros done (the original plan) was unlikely to be sensible or beneficial. The group were also excellent, having loads of previous walking experience in all weather and picked up things quickly, allowing for some fast progression.

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So on the first day we headed into Coire an t-Sneachda, had a quick session on moving on snow, resulting in some sliding fun (ice axe arrests). We then moved into the Coire proper to have a look at some old avalanche debris, and use crampons. Despite the consolidated and melting pack, we found some (non vertical) ice to show what crampons do really well. As the group we picking this up well and conditions were good, we headed up an easy angled gully next to the goat track, looking at avalanche avoidance and testing on the way.

After that excitement, we went for lunch in Coire Domhain. Unfortunately there were no remnants of snow holes to look at. The plateau was pretty devoid of snow, but we headed to Cairngorm summit anyway. After bagging the Munro, we headed back into Corrie Cas for some more detailed avalanche tests and a walk down through the ski area.

The next day we concentrated on rope techniques, going into Coire an Lochain and getting a good look at the great slab. After some digging and testing of various snow anchors, we practised our bucket seats and buried axes while ‘pitching’ up an easy slope. After some navigation to the top of Cairn Lochan, we used a snow bollard to descend onto Fiacaill Corrie an t-Sneachda. The further descent gave some more practice of classic Scottish mix of snow/ice/slush/rock. The wind was picking up and it was getting late, so we rushed off back to the hostel catching a rain shower in the last 30 mins.

Despite the less than ideal conditions, the course was enjoyed by everyone, and there was much discussion about running it again next year.

Photos from Scotland and Seathwaite

Here are some photos from our recent trip to Scotland (most of which is described in the post below).

After escaping from the Onich traffic jam, we made our way to Glenfinnan to position ourselves for a round of the two Munros there, Sgurr nan Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm, the next day.  After a nice walk up the long track to Glenfinnan Lodge, the weather got us again, and we spent the rest of the day battling rain, wind and snow in the clouds.  We were glad to follow a couple of sets of footprints, which we later found to have been left by Michael and Alex P two days previously!  We made it round slightly quicker then expected due to favourable snow conditions, and as we descended out of the blizzard, the sun shone incredibly over the glen.

After four “quality winter days” we were very glad to spend the evening and welcome the new year in the company of friends at Borrodale House near Arisaig, where we were warmly welcomed with tea, sherry, enthusiasm, and a singing lobster.

The next day we got up in the light for the first time of the trip, and enjoyed a stroll along the beach before heading south.

Two days later we were back in the hills, this time joining CUHWC at Seathwaite in Borrowdale for the weekend.  The weather was no better than it had been in Scotland, but there was considerably less snow on the ground.  Our walks took us from Buttermere to Seathwaite via Robinson, Hindscarth and Dale Head, and over Eagle Crag and Sergeant’s Crag.

Last few days of 2013

As we’re currently stuck in a traffic jam near Fort William I thought we should blog. We’ve been here for three days and dispute the weather have had some good days out.

Firstly we spent a day in Glen Lyon, doing a high level traverse of 4 Munro’s. Having blown away the cobwebs and had a long day we opted for an easier next day. Beinn Fhionnliadh from Glen Etive was not as short as expected. We had an initial false start having camped in the wrong place and had to relocate down the Glen. Then we found the bridge has been washed away so started the long walk towards the col. At 12 we eventually got across and started climbing. As we were higher up than expected we took an alternative route into the corrie and onto the north east ridge. A great ridge followed by the expected summit ridge with some interesting winter steps.

Today we had a longer day around Ben Starav and Glas Bheinn Mhor, with the unexpectedly fun ridge descent from Starav. Great mountaineering day.

Snow is a bit wet but firm in places, nice and calm but cloud making us navigate occasionally.

Our  van is excellent, having not been to a campsite, we haven’t been cold once although we are getting slowly wetter as the trip goes on.

Pictures will follow once we are at a computer. All spelling mistakes curtasy of the tablet keyboard

The accident has now cleared, so I’ll post this.

Slight delay as the car in front breaks down and blocks traffic in both directions…

Scotland (van-less)

While Dave was working hard on the van last week, I went to Scotland for a week’s post-thesis/teaching holiday.  It was wonderfully sunny and equally wonderfully midge-free, and a reminder that in the right conditions the Highlands are difficult to beat.  Most of the trip was spent camping with Alison, David and Ruth at Ardmair just north of Ullapool.  The site was delightful: right on the shore with views of the surrounding hills and out to the Summer Isles, and it also afforded the opportunity to snoop at various camper vans staying there!

The weather and time of year meant long days on the hills, although some time was admittedly spent sitting on the sun-warmed rocks admiring the view!  Ascents of Ben More Assynt, Conival and Glas Bheinn; Cul Mor and Cul Beag; and An Teallach put us at the heart of the magical Assynt landscape: steep sided ridges of layered Torridonian sandstone rising from a lochan-strewn gneiss plain and capped with glittering quartzite, against the backdrop of an incredibly blue Hebridean sea.  It’s been eight years since I was last there on a first-year field trip, but I hope not to leave it that long next time – it would be a really fantastic place to explore in the van.

On the way to and from the far north, we made various stops: a weekend in Edinburgh to catch up with the duffer contingent there, Schiehallion (for David’s Munro completion), Beinn a’ Chuallaich north of Kinloch Rannoch, Ben Wyvis, and Ben Tee by Loch Lochy.

Some photos from the trip are below; there is a more extensive and better quality collection here.