Alps 2018

Finally getting around to updating the blog….

Over the summer, we headed to the Alps. Dave headed up some peaks, while Jo did some lower level walking, cable car riding and intensive resting in the campsite.  It was the first time we’d taken the van to the Alps in summer since the rather soggy Saas trip of 2014, and we were relieved that this one didn’t follow suit (although our expectations have probably evolved somewhat in the intervening years).

We were based initially in Bormio, Italy, where summits reached included Monte Cevedale and Punta San Matteo.  We also drove up and down the Stelvio Pass a silly number of times, explored the WW2 front line, and can highly recommend the pizza and gelato at the campsite.

We then transferred over the border to Morteratsch near Pontresina in the Engadine, Switzerland.  The highlight from here was Piz Palu (just sub-4000m), and we also made friends with the marmots around Piz Languard, were introduced to Megacremeschnitte (Dave promised to recreate these at home, but for some reason hasn’t got round to it yet) and did some valley climbing.

Oeztal Ski Tour

We (or rather our friends who we piggybacked on) had planned a tight schedule, meaning we packed light, with few clothes other than those needed for a 6 day hut to hut trip. Unfortunately weather and snow conditions meant drastic changes were needed to the schedule, but at least this meant we got our flight home.

Everything was going well until Luton Airport, where our flight was delayed. Once in Munich the car hire had partially closed and we ended up with a smaller car. Finally with everything crammed in, we tried to exit the car park. After causing chaos by failing to get the barriers open, trying a second barrier and manoeuvring a full, new and unfamiliar car around the other impatient drivers we found we needed a ticket that the hire desk had forgotten to give us…

Getting to our accommodation at around 3.30, we crashed into bed, but not before reading a message from Simon saying the forecast meant a 7am breakfast. Urgh.
A sleepy breakfast followed and we crammed back into the car to travel to Vent to start the tour. Having managed to squeeze in a repack and shower while Simon and Jane caught the bus, the four of us assumed we were way behind and would find them waiting for us in the car park in Vent. As we approached Vent, a friendly man had to open a snow gate for us to pass into the village. Parking the car (and unsticking it from the snow, and re-parking it somewhere else) took some time, but eventually we learnt that the bus had stopped running, the road was closed – we had been one of the last cars through – and Simon and Jane were on the other side.

Much deliberation followed, and with an awful forecast for the next day, combined with the prospect of Simon and Jane having to return home, we failed to commit to the walk to the hut early enough and decided to reunite everyone and try again the following day. However, we were, for now, stuck in Vent so we went for a quick skinning and skiing practice around the local area, before waiting (first in line) for the snow gates to open again and let us back down.

We were exceptionally lucky to find last-minute accommodation over the Easter weekend (at the same place as our initial night), where cheap good food was also available for dinner. The next day was a washout, so we skied on piste at a small resort (Hochoetz), struggling to see much more than a few metres ahead.

With the forecast showing slowly improving weather, we decided to head into the Vernagt Hut for 3 nights. This meant no hut to hut touring, but made the best of the 4 days we had left.

A quick skin up the track, and we were soon ready to head up the side glen towards the hut, which went on forever. Next, the guidebook mentioned something about being next to cables. Given the wind-scoured hard snow, we proceeded with caution to be met with a howling gale, spindrift, steep slopes and some interesting drops that really needed avoided. After this awkward descending traverse (with some cables to trip over), we recommenced the plod to the hut in winds that covered our tracks as soon as we made them. After a while, I decided that despite my re-found love of trailblazing, I couldn’t break trail all the way to the hut and dropped to the back. This was just as well, as it put me in prime position to see a gust of wind catch Bethan and Jo out and knock them flying cartoon style down the hill.

The Vernagt hut is a DAV hut, which was quiet despite being Easter weekend (almost empty when we left on the Wednesday). It had very attentive hosts, piles of pasta, enormous strudels and great march tea. It also had hot running water and the possibility of a shower. However, it lacked hut slippers.

Our first day tour from the hut took us up over the Brochkogeljoch and round to the Wildspitze. With masses of teams coming from at least 3 different directions, it was an impressive line up to the summit. With cloud being blown across the summit in the winds, and a slightly suspect slope to descend back to the hut, we made a decision to turn around at the ski depot. With hindsight, the slope was fine, but it was too late by then.

The second day tour led us up the Fluchtkogel, which gave a wonderful skin up the glacier, and a windy summit on skis. The first wind-scoured slopes were like a well-groomed piste, and having checked out the snow on the way up, I was excited for the powder down from the col. My excitement soon ended as I crashed out on the first turn having completely misjudged the snow – it was heavy, with a slight crust under the surface. Once I had found my ski again, the ski back to the hut was entertaining, with various levels of inability to turn in crusty snow. The one good patch was slightly spoiled for me as I was out first in low light levels and wobbled about everywhere as rolling bumps came out of nowhere.

The final day came, and we decided to hot-foot it out of the area to ensure we got past any potential road closures – getting caught the wrong side of the avalanche barriers would have meant a missed flight. An icy descent followed, with a storm brewing above us.  Driving down the road, it was clear they had been blasting recently – massive 3-4 m avalanche debris had been cleared from the road, with many small trees caught up in it. We had a couple of walks around towns before getting on the flight home, including Mittenwald – slightly dubious as we drove in past the military base, but actually a wonderfully painted town centre with exceptional ice cream.

Although another ski tour that didn’t go to plan, it was a fantastic week out in Austria.

CUHWC Winter Skills 2018

So once again we headed to Glencoe, this time to meet up with 4 current CUHWC members who had agreed to let Dave lead a winter skills course.

The 4 (Sarah, Bronwen, Chris and Simon) had been out the day before, and had some experience between them, so it was an intense couple of days covering lots of skills and lots of ground to practise them on.

First up, we headed towards Buachaille Etive Beag, to run through the basic personal skills – footwork, crampons and axes. After lunch we put these into practice by walking over both Munros and taking the direct route down to the car.

The next day, we planned an ambitious ascent of Bidean Nam Bian, ascending up to Coire nan Lochan, again recapping on the personal skills, while also talking more about route choice, planning and avalanches. The ascent onto Stob Coire nan Lochan provided some slightly more interesting mixed ground and some fantastic views on top. The consensus was to head for Bidean instead of doing any more skills, so we pressed on, up an imposing looking snow arete to find Bidean was also out of the cloud when we arrived. Knowledge from a passing helpful mountaineer told us the descent into the Lost Valley was not suitable. This wasn’t much of a surprise, so we retraced our steps and descended from Stob Coire nan Lochan back to the car, managing to fit in a brief demonstration of rope work and enjoying the good slidability of the snowpack.

It was a fantastic couple of days, with great weather, surprisingly good conditions and good company. Thanks to CUHWC and the guys

for a great weekend, I hope they all continue to enjoy the winter mountains.

Proper Scottish Winter

In February, Jo took a couple of days of work and we zoomed up to the Glencoe area to see if winter was still around. It was.

Stayed in the van, but with the luxury of campsite showers and ‘shore power’ for the heater. Van living, combined with 4 consecutive quality winter mountain days out and a trip to the Clachaig made us feel a bit closer to being real Scottish mountaineers.

Swiss Christmas

Breaking with tradition, this year we took the van to the Alps over Christmas and New Year.  This was somewhat experimental and I won’t pretend it wasn’t all rather stressful leading up to the trip, but once we actually left things greatly improved.  The outcomes: 1) We didn’t freeze to death, get stuck in the snow or get fed up of each other during the long dark evenings.  2) Fairy lights might become a permanent feature in the van.  3) We did manage three days of sunny ski touring, two days of snowshoeing, one day faffing about on snow in high winds and flat light (not sure it could really be called “skiing”), a very cold morning on piste, and several days with expat friends in and around Zurich to see in 2018 – most of which was a lot of fun.  4) We did miss Scotland and might have to go there a lot this year to make up for it.  5) We might do it again sometime…

French skiing

A week of ski touring with Tom, from a rather comfortable base in La Bâtie des Vigneux near Briançon (thanks, Hares!).  Mostly day tours with one overnight in the Queyras.

Spring catch-up

A selection of goings-on from the last few months, none of which seemed deserving of its own post!  But I have photos and nowhere else to put them, so here they are.

First, our annual New Year trip to Scotland, this time to Mull.  Staying right on the shore, we enjoyed spotting otters, sea eagles and the Northern Lights, plus a Corbett, some Grahams, a cave, some pottering and a great sunny/snowy mountaineering day out on Ben More.  Unfortunately I’d forgotten to charge my camera battery and didn’t have a spare…

Next, I joined an Eagle Ski Club off-piste skiing course taught by the highly recommended Alison Culshaw, based in Chamonix.  It was the coldest week of the winter (-20), but sunny and very profitable from a learning-to-ski-properly point of view.

Dave was feeling left out, so we planned a weekend in Scotland at the end of January to try some Scottish skiing.  But we didn’t think there was enough snow, and reverted to Plan B (some efficient bagging of the Lawers Munros on foot).  However, the van had other ideas when the alternator packed up on Friday night in Glenogle between Lochearnhead and Killin.  Having spent the night there we visited the local garage, who couldn’t fix us and advised that we “enjoy our holiday” and get the AA to tow us home on Sunday.  By now having wasted half the day and being stuck in Killin in steadily falling (slightly solid) rain, Lawers was out the question.  Instead: brunch, then a walk back up Glenogle and a consolation Graham, Meall Buidhe.  We spent all of Sunday getting home…

My birthday fell on a Saturday this year, so we invited the local duffers for a walk round the Langdale Pikes (really just an excuse for a get-together).

David came to visit us for a weekend to tick off some of our local Marilyns.  We’d been up Sharp Haw on the Skipton skyline before, but our route this time (from Flasby) was much nicer, and this time we visited neighbouring Rough Haw too.  As that was a short morning’s work, we headed to Ilkley in the afternoon to explore its famous Moor (it was too cold for any baht ‘at nonsense, mind you).  On Sunday we visited Brontë country for a slightly grim circuit of Boulsworth Hill, Top Withens and the Walshaw Dean Reservoirs.  The mist didn’t lift all day, hence no pictures…

At the start of March we visited Eleri in St Andrews.  Rain and mist confined us a walk along the Fife coast path on Saturday, from which the sea was only visible when we were actually on the beach.  On Sunday, we did a pleasant loop from Auchtermuchty around Pitmedden Forest.  Highlights were the nice woodland, views of the Firth of Tay, a deer farm and the slightly incongruous hot tub business.

Honeymooning on Skye

Wedding photos are still a work in progress, but here are some of our wonderful trip to Skye afterwards. (We’re still not really sure whether this counted as a honeymoon or not and reserve the right to have another one at a later date!)

Southern Cairngorms

August bank holiday backpacking from Linn of Dee.  Jo finally gets to see the Cairngorm plateau, free from mist and snow, in all its bouldery, heathery, grassy glory – albeit through a cloud of midges…

Silvretta Tour

So back in March, we headed to the Austrian Alps to do some skiing.

After a surprisingly relaxing and straightforward drive across Europe, we started the few days of resort skiing with the Ischgl lift system. It was good to get back on the skis, even if we did enthusiastically make an early (read icy) descent of a ski-routen (signed, unpisted and full of lumps). A quick trip over to Samnaun in Switzerland and trying to get an idea of the route and peaks around made for a great day out in good weather – the snow was in better condition than expected, with very little of it melting out.

A further couple of days in resort saw us ski `The White Ring’ connecting Lech, Zürs, Zug and Oberlech, and a day skiing from St Anton, where Jo broke the adjustment thread on her binding. Having fudged it and skied nervously for the rest of the day, attempts to replicate the failure at the apartment where futile, so we saw no use in attempting to show the hire shop. The threat of super gluing the whole binding seemed to be enough and it never troubled her again, but we vowed to buy our own skis as soon as possible.

After these fantastic few days of finding our legs, we then set off on the tour, but only after a half day skiing in Ischgl again, culminating in an attempt to ski off the top to the hut, which was quickly abandoned in the rather Scottish conditions (visibility equivalent to ski length, wind pushes you uphill). The skin up the track was a great alternative that day.

What followed was 4 days of skiing, skiing, booting, waiting behind guided groups (we were particularly unlucky), navigation stresses and successes, sunshine, fresh powder (fallen overnight) and the summits of the Breite Krone, Hinter Jamspitz, Dreilanderspitz and Piz Buin. The huts were great, the first, Heidelberger hütte had private 4 bed rooms and hot water, Jamtalhütte had no slippers, hot dining rooms and waitresses that kept closing windows and the Weissbadner hütte had amazingly enthusiastic staff and a bunk room of disgruntled skiers who forgot the clocks had changed.

So after the amazing skiing we’d managed, it was with regret that we skidded down the icy path (high winds prevented a higher route out), then had a long skate across a frozen lake followed by an even longer skate along (meant to be down…) the valley to Galtur, where the free ski bus took us back to the car.