Bank holiday backpacking

The observant among you will note that we’re a little behind with our blogging – but bear with us; we’ve accumulated a few trips to write about.  First up, a little trip to Scotland over the late May bank holiday (and slightly beyond).

We started the trip with a few days by Loch Lomond to see friends and help Ruth climb her last Munro. After a warm up (very hot, humid and hazy) on the Cobbler and Beinn Narnain on Saturday, we successfully climbed Ben Lomond in increasingly wet and windy weather on the Sunday. This did mean we had the summit to ourselves (although a group of ~20 would have been enough to put everyone else off anyway), and we did get some views.  A great weekend, followed by a tasty dinner in the oldest pub in Drymen.

We had a few extra days off and an urge to do some proper wild camping (i.e. in a tent, not a van), so on Monday morning we headed to Glen Nevis for some backpacking. A late start simply meant a late finish in the long daylight, so we set off up the Glen, ascending to Sgurr Connich Beag and continuing along the Grey Corries ridge. The weather was good, with some strange wind patterns and excellent visibility below the cloud that was just covering the Aonachs and Nevis tops. Snow was abundant for the time of year, but fortunately only blocked the path on the descents (mainly East facing slopes), leaving the rocky ascending ridges clear. We made good time and got to the bealach between Stob Coire Claurigh and Stob Ban in time for dinner and a campsite.  Although windy, it was warm enough to sit in the tent with a view across to Sgurr Innse, the Loch Trieg hills, Loch Laggan and the hills beyond.

The following day we made short work of Stob Ban before a massive descent, river crossing and re-ascent south to Sgurr Elide Mor. We then nipped round to bag Binnein Beag while the cloud and rain came in. It was good to be back in the Mamores, but snow on the high ridges combined with the rain setting in and ever decreasing cloud levels meant that ascending Binnein Mor and continuing along the ridge was far less appealing than a cosy night in the van. We’ve done walking and camping in the rain without a view plenty of times before, so we headed out. A classic Morrisons breakfast while watching the rain in Fort William rounded off the trip before heading home, via a driving tour of Edinburgh.

Finally, as some of you will know (apologies to those we haven’t got round to telling yet – we’re finding it rather tricky to do in person in any sort of timely manner), we also got engaged on this trip while admiring the view from our tent.  No plans have been made yet, but we’re thinking of getting married in the autumn of 2016 – probably somewhere with mountains.  But don’t worry – we’ve no intention of letting wedding planning get in the way of adventuring!

Duffers in Northumberland

A March weekend in the north east with hillwalking friends (several weeks ago now, but holidays got in the way of posting).  Most of us were coming from the London/Cambridge area, so the Scottish border seemed an ideal place to meet up.  A conspicuous lack of Pettits owing to poor timetabling may have resulted in some less-than-early starts… As well as walking in the Cheviots and near Bamburgh Castle, and catching up on everyone’s news, we enjoyed a feast (masterminded by Jane) on Saturday evening, and some of us kept the others awake by “playing” Articulate late into the night…

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Lakes Camping January

So it’s been a while since we went winter wild camping in the Lakes, and we thought it would be good to do again.

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The aims for the weekend were to find some snow, walk a long way over many hills and use our expensive tent, rucksacks, sleeping bags that are lying around not doing much. The van was also designed to make such wild camping trips easier, but we haven’t got around to doing this.

What we found was:
The majority of the snow had melted. There was still enough, and we did use crampons once, but not the bucketfuls I was hoping for.
The winds were much stronger than expected, from a different direction, and with heavy bags on a narrow snowy ridge, this provided much needed entertainment and some potential nasty knee problems. We were almost reduced to a crawl, which is something I haven’t done for a very long time. Luckily the knee seems to be holding up and getting better.

We did manage 12 Wainwrights near Braithwaite for those that count such things, including Grisedale Pike, Hopegill Head, Whiteside, Grasmoor, Whiteless Pike, Wandope, Eel Crag, Sail, Scar Crags, Causey Pike, Outerside, Barrow. Since we were in the cloud all weekend, I still need to do them again to get a view.

We also managed to forget about using the gas canister for a weekend in the autumn, meaning we took a nearly empty one. We just about scraped by; melting snow and getting it just hot enough for the dehydrated meals. The lack of food and drink made the night colder and longer, with an interruption by some mad mountain bikers coming nearby around 8pm. In the morning we dashed back to the van to avoid the rain and find some water. The van then came into its own by providing endless hot drinks and hot lunch and snacks, although it took me until mid Monday to get back to normal. I’ll triple check the gas next time.

Looks like we still have some things to learn about winter camping, so will give it another shot in a few years time. Maybe earlier if we use something cosier like a bothy or snowhole.

New Year in Glen Shiel

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Links to more Photos:
Dave’s Photos (trying flickr out)
Jo’s Photos (still struggling with picasa/google)

The most fresh snow we saw over our New Year trip to the Highlands was in Bradwell on the night before we left. Dave had arrived earlier that day to discover that the forecasts he had been using to deduce that we would be fine getting out in the morning unfortunately did not refer to the Bradwell in the Peak District, where in fact we were and where heavy snow was now falling. However, some pre-emptive action (leaving the car at the bottom of the hill) and some efficient gritting meant that we successfully escaped. In fact we were rather surprised to arrive first at Shiel Lodge, after narrowly avoiding being tempted out by a snowy, sunny Glencoe.

Luckily, that wasn’t quite all the sun and snow for the trip. We had a couple of great winter days out on part of the South Shiel Ridge and on the Three Brothers of Kintail, with snow-covered tops, some interesting ridgy bits and a whole day of alpine views. Best winter walking days for ages, and finally proof that the winter photos in the Munro book might actually not have been faked… It was also a good chance to practice a bit of snow examination and avalanche awareness without a howling gale for once, not to mention some boot skiing on the way down.

Inevitably, the snow all but disappeared and the rain and gales returned, but we managed to get up A’Ghlas-bheinn near Morvich and then Beinn a’ Chapuill near Glenelg on the two subsequent days. Both pretty wild but with surprisingly good views, and a splendid way to work up an appetite for DC and Mary’s excellent New Year’s Eve dinner! Even worse weather the next day encouraged us to get up late, enjoy a brunch of bacon, eggs and waffles, and later make a token effort by wandering along Loch Duich to the cemetery beyond Ratagan and going to visit the local llamas. We still got soaked.

On the final full day we ignored the predicted risk of whiteouts and thunder for a really quite pleasant ascent of Sgurr Airgid near Morvich. Increasingly windy and icy underfoot, but also wonderful winter light and snow-dusted views (at least when it wasn’t hailing), and all the better for being so unexpected. The light was so good that we went out again to inspect Eilean Donan – by which time, of course, it was dull and drizzly again, but we had fun nosing around the shore and the brightly-painted village of Dornie.

We bagged a final bonus Corbett on the way home: another glorious day, so we stopped at Kinlochleven to run up Garbh Bheinn and salivate over the Mamores. Another marvellous ridge (even if the steep nose was a little reminiscent of our scree-running-on-ice experience in Kyrgyzstan), and great to be among the mountains for a little longer.

So, some reward for the past three years of miserable Scottish winter weather – but hopefully that’s not it for another three…

Pitlochry and Bethesda

A couple of weekend trips in the last few weeks – one to a cottage near Pitlochry to meet family, the other to a bunkhouse near Bethesda to meet friends.

The cottage in Pitlochry was suitably old and drafty but held great views over the the autumn colours in the glen. Forecasts for 50 mph gusts and 50% chance of cloud free summits made the 3 tops of Beinn a’Ghlo the objective for Saturday. With weather worsening in the afternoon, we sped along the ridge to have lunch on the last top, descending the south ridge and enjoying the long tramp back to the car in sunshine. Good views from the first two tops, and occasional glimpses from the last. The wind was also less than expected.

The next day was spent cycling through the autumn colours, which we had forgotten were quite so good in that part of the country. A bit of rain damped things, but better than expected.

A final morning was spent with a quick walk through the woods before heading home.

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Wales the weekend after was a different story. With high winds and continuous rain forecast, we headed up to Carnedd y Filiast, Elider Fawr and onto Foel Goch and Y Garn. It didn’t stop raining and the wind made sure we were thoroughly wet. The wind coming off the NE ridge of Y Garn was enough to blow us over a couple of times. The log fire back in the bunkhouse was well earned and appreciated.

Sunshine tempted us on Sunday to go for another walk, so we headed up around the northern Carneddau, on which it rained for an hour or so. Luckily the sun came out on the way down, and we finally dried off, before finding ourselves deep in farm mud a few metres from the road.

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Western Fells (or Bivvying on Buckbarrow)

This time last year, CUHWC was just beginning its Twenty-Fifth Anniversary Year. As part of the celebrations, a challenge was set (I forget the details, but I strongly suspect Michael was involved) for the club to put a present or past member on top of every Wainwright within the twelve-month academic year. Valiant efforts were made, but as the deadline approached, Phil and Joe decided that concerted action was needed to ensure success and set about calculating how two people could possibly bag the remaining scattered fells in a weekend.

Fortunately, this unlikely scenario was in the end unnecessary. There was plenty of enthusiasm from within the ranks and, a couple of weekends ago, nine of us headed to the Lakes to finish the job. We convened at Syke Farm in Buttermere on Friday night, before splitting into crack bagging teams and, having been given our marching orders, heading our separate ways the next morning.

Since Dave has banned himself from weekends away for a while, I was paired with Eleri. Our rather ambitious tick list took us on a traverse of four of the remotest valleys in the Lakes: Buttermere Valley, Ennerdale, Wasdale, and Eskdale. We set off from Buttermere amid a throng of assembling triathletes – so warm and calm was the day that I almost envied them their swim!

Our first objective was Pillar, and the quickest route there – over Scarth Gap Pass, across Ennerdale and back up to Black Sail Pass – was not particularly quick. It was 1 o’clock and definitely lunchtime when we made it, dripping with sweat in the windless air, to the summit. But once we were up high, further summits toppled relatively easily as we ticked Scoat Fell, Steeple and Haycock in about an hour. The next challenge was Caw Fell – we had trouble locating the top not (for once) because of poor visibility or even a featureless summit plateau, but because of Wainwright’s idiosyncratic choice of hills and the failure of our maps to make clear what he was thinking. Eventually deciding he meant the lower ring contour, we made an out-and-back to bag it. Eleri promptly declared – quite possibly uniquely – that Caw Fell was her favourite Wainwright (so far).

On Caw Fell we also briefly met Joe and Phil, who had gamely volunteered for the Lank Rigg group and were now in search of something more interesting. Leaving them to run over Haycock, we traversed around the side to meet up with them again en route to Seatallan. We were also glad to find the first water since Ennerdale – it was one of those rare days in the British hills when two litres is barely enough.

Seatallan was a bit of a sting in the tail, but the hazy views from the top were fabulous. A short hop down Nether Wasdale Common later, we had set up camp near the “summit” of Buckbarrow and enjoyed a quite passable four-course meal of various rehydrated substances plus a large golden syrup cake. Bed soon beckoned, and from the green ledge on which my bivvy bag nestled, I had a glorious view of the lights of Sellafield as the sun set…so much for getting away from work.

Sunday dawned greyer and cooler than the previous day, but rays of sunlight parted the clouds to land in Wasdale as we descended towards it – the boys having run ahead on a heroic mission to Green Crag. The woods and fields at the western end of Wast Water, just on the cusp of autumn, provided a pleasant low-level interlude during which I nearly lost Eleri to a couple of very tiny piglets. I managed to drag her away eventually, and we soon reached the summit of Whin Rigg via Greathall Gill. A short stroll to Illgill Head followed, then a descent to Burnmoor Tarn. No one else was around and the expansive col felt surprisingly wild, with rocky cascades tumbling off the slopes that led up to Scafell, and sun dancing on the water.

And then we were just about done; all that remained was to coerce our sore feet (I really must do something about those boots) down the track to the relative civilisation of Eskdale. Due to meet the rest of the group shortly at Hardknott Pass, we didn’t really have time for a well-deserved celebratory pint of “Rosie’s Pig” at the Boot Inn – but we had one anyway!

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Ogwen Weekend

A couple of weekends ago, a group of old friends came together from London and Cambridge and ended up in Snowdonia, camped below Tryfan. A misty murky morning on Saturday meant a slow start. We opted for some scrambling, doing a route on the East face of Tryfan. We actually started up the face one gully too early, so ended up on a different, but no less good route. Good to get one of the route-finding failures out the way early in the season.

Ending up on the north ridge a bit early, we zoomed up the easier rock, until finding more interesting challenges. We continued straight over the top to avoid crowds and headed on to the north face of Glyder Fach. Despite the mist, the rock was in good condition, so up another scramble, then down to the campsite.

As we’re rarely in Snowdonia in summer, we made the most of the daylight with a quick route on Tryfan Bach before a late dinner. We then managed to get everyone hiding from the midges inside the van quite comfortably.

Sunday dawned with slightly better weather, so we headed for Idwal for easy approach and exit when the weather inevitably turned.

Once at the bottom of the crag, the weather turned for the better, so after splitting up a bit, we made a mountain day of it. Jo went off to sketch, I moved together with Joe up an easy route on Idwal, scrambled out the top, and ended up on the great Central Arete. I wonder if I’ll ever pitch a route again, as it was so much less faff to move together.  We met up at the top and descended over Y Garn to an ice cream.

A climb, a walk and some good company

It recently dawned on us that we hadn’t been to Wales for over a year – which meant we had never taken the van there. Over the first May bank holiday weekend we rectified this with a splendid few days in north and south Snowdonia.

Amphitheatre Buttress on Craig yr Ysfa in the Carneddau has been on our wish list for several years. Described as a “long mountain adventure”, we thought it would be both a gentle reintroduction to rock climbing (another thing we hadn’t done for over a year – incidentally since the last Wales trip), and a good warm-up for the Alps. So this was our main target for the weekend – and it looked like the weather was going to play ball…

Unfortunately MWIS was uncharacteristically optimistic, and when we woke up on Saturday morning to distinctly cold and cloudy skies, we were amused to notice that yesterday’s prediction of “extensive sunshine” had been altered to “almost no sunshine” ten minutes previously. Only slightly daunted, we headed up the mountain anyway. It was a good decision: although we found the rock cold on the first pitch, there were no real weather-related difficulties and being able to hear each other over the refreshing lack of wind made a nice change.

Despite not starting particularly early, we were first on the route.  The bottom slabs didn’t look quite gentle enough not to pitch, and in fact we thought these presented some of the toughest moves – but maybe that was just our rustyness.  The crux was steeper and nicely exposed but with good holds, and after that we moved together.  A few gendarmes and a genuinely knife-edged ridge made for an entertaining penultimate section!  Overall, a fantastic route with great views and isolated mountain setting (especially when compared to the crowds on topping out) – easily deserving of its classic status.  To finish the day we ran up Carnedd Llewelyn and Pen yr Helgi Du before descending the ridge (and bog, and hopping a wall) to Gwern Gof Isaf.

Over tea and crisps, we decided to head south to join friends on the CUHWC trip to Bryn Golau in Dinas Mawddwy for the remainder of the weekend, and enjoyed a sociable couple of evenings in the bunkhouse (returning to the much more comfortable van to sleep!).  On Sunday we walked on the always-pleasant Arans, and managed to fit in a quick ascent of almost-deserted Maesglase (a hill previously admired, but never before climbed) on Monday morning.

 

Sun? in Scotland?!

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So for Easter, we got a bit excited, and after 8 hours of driving and looking at weather forecasts, we stopped at the Kings House Hotel (round the back on the old road, not actually in the hotel) for a few hours and then started up the hill at 3 am.  Amusingly, this qualifies as one of Jo’s earliest alpine starts.

The idea was that if the forecast snow had come, we wanted it frozen not slushy for the Aonach Eagach. In the end, there was no snow, only dribbles of verglas and an incredible dawn, with sunrise coinciding with us drinking hot chocolate on the first Munro half way along the ridge. Shame.

So after the rather fabulous start to the trip, we ambled along the rest of the ridge, picked up an ankle injury and got back to the van 12 hours after starting.

Dave soon found that although walking anywhere with boots on was painful, trainers were fine – so we were constrained to easy trainer walks. Although not ideal, this was better than nothing. We made the most of the sun, walking around the coast near Kentallan (south of Ballachulish) before heading across the Corran ferry. A quick wash in a river and we were presentable to walk into a posh pub/restaurant (the Salen Hotel) to meet Jo’s parents for dinner to celebrate their 30th wedding anniversary.

A great couple of days were then spent based at Druimnich on the south coast of Ardnamurchan, a small estate owned by Jo’s family friends Dave and Jenny Kime. After a short expedition around Druimnich (from the new jetty to the water butts, admiring the seals, viewpoints, vegetable garden, wind turbine and pine martens). We then explored Ben Hiant, Sanna Beach, Ardnamurchan light house (for ice cream) and Ariundle ancient oak woodland. We didn’t quite get on to the volcano – next time.  Weather was excellent, although the haze spoilt the views somewhat. There has to be some reason to return though!

It was a shame to come home in good weather, but we’d had a relaxing time (rather than the usual knackering) and the drive home was slightly more pleasant than the usual driving rain. Luckily there are some more bank holidays in the not too distant future.

Dave’s photos

Jo’s photos

Compacted Winter Skills

A couple of Saturdays ago, I headed up to Aviemore to run a winter skills course for some friends from CUHWC. Very soon (0830), the van broke down. Turned out to be nothing dramatic – just the brake pads rubbing, but as the breakdown service had lost my policy details we took all day to get back to Cambridge.

On Sunday we took a second attempt. This time in the Polo, with minimal gear, and all of us booked into a hostel. Success! We got to Penrith for the best bacon butties I’ve ever had, and got to the Cairngorm ski car park by 5pm. We jumped at the opportunity to spend an hour on a small snow patch going over the basics and stretching our legs.

As we had lost a day with the van breakdown, I was worried about trying to squeeze a 3 day course into 2 days.. Luckily the wind and snow conditions meant that going high and getting some Munros done (the original plan) was unlikely to be sensible or beneficial. The group were also excellent, having loads of previous walking experience in all weather and picked up things quickly, allowing for some fast progression.

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So on the first day we headed into Coire an t-Sneachda, had a quick session on moving on snow, resulting in some sliding fun (ice axe arrests). We then moved into the Coire proper to have a look at some old avalanche debris, and use crampons. Despite the consolidated and melting pack, we found some (non vertical) ice to show what crampons do really well. As the group we picking this up well and conditions were good, we headed up an easy angled gully next to the goat track, looking at avalanche avoidance and testing on the way.

After that excitement, we went for lunch in Coire Domhain. Unfortunately there were no remnants of snow holes to look at. The plateau was pretty devoid of snow, but we headed to Cairngorm summit anyway. After bagging the Munro, we headed back into Corrie Cas for some more detailed avalanche tests and a walk down through the ski area.

The next day we concentrated on rope techniques, going into Coire an Lochain and getting a good look at the great slab. After some digging and testing of various snow anchors, we practised our bucket seats and buried axes while ‘pitching’ up an easy slope. After some navigation to the top of Cairn Lochan, we used a snow bollard to descend onto Fiacaill Corrie an t-Sneachda. The further descent gave some more practice of classic Scottish mix of snow/ice/slush/rock. The wind was picking up and it was getting late, so we rushed off back to the hostel catching a rain shower in the last 30 mins.

Despite the less than ideal conditions, the course was enjoyed by everyone, and there was much discussion about running it again next year.