Aberdeen Angus (but no steak)

Over the Easter weekend we took the van to eastern Scotland, for a mixture of Munros and cycling (and quite a lot of “motor touring”, aka driving around).

We began with a coastal cycle from Arbroath (where we ended up when we discovered that our planned camping spot near Carnoustie was the wrong side of a <2m railway bridge).  Heading northwards along Route One, we enjoyed views of sandy beaches, flowering gorse and a lot of polytunnels.  So to Montrose for cake, after which we turned inland, negotiated an “interesting” farm track, struggled through the aptly named Hillside, then zoomed into Brechin for lunch at its (apparently famous?) cathedral.  The afternoon was spent battling headwinds on long, straight, undulating roads, but we were finally rewarded with an easy descent back into Arbroath.  We then drove up into Glen Clova and enjoyed an evening in the hotel bar, where the steak was more than twice the price of anything else on the menu, so we didn’t have it…

On Saturday we met David –  who happened to be in the area – for some ticking of Driesh and Mayar, ascending from Glen Doll via the Kilbo path and returning by Jock’s Road.  The weather was mostly sunny, which didn’t stop a biting wind delivering a battering of light snow for an hour or so.  After the summits, we continued to Dun Hillocks and followed a little burn through some remote-feeling moorland to the plateau edge, where there were spectacular views down the glen.  Unfortunately the burn then descended over a cliff and we couldn’t quite find a way down, so a short detour was required to return us to the path.  Having left David to bag a bonus Corbett, the evening’s drive took us out to Stonehaven, then back inland through Banchory to Alford and a lovely camping spot on top of Suie Hill in deepest Aberdeenshire.

This delightful position was less appreciated the next morning when we had to put on all our jackets and gloves to roll down the hill on a chilly and grey (but dry) Easter morning.  We soon warmed up on speedy roads through a variety of interesting villages towards Kemnay, and arrived at our intended afternoon tea stop at Castle Fraser around 11.30… Back on the road after coffee and scones, we cycled alongside the River Don back to Alford and up the biggest hill of the day to finish at the van.  Our next overnight spot was Invermark at the top of Glen Esk.  We spent most of the evening trying to work out why on earth a police car seemed interested enough in another car to wait two hours for the owner to return.  It’s still a mystery.

We were now perfectly placed for a quick ascent of Mount Keen the following day, which was duly completed, with good views of the main Cairngorms.  Heading south by around 2, concluding a successful trip exploring a new area and avoiding the worst of the weather!

Spring catch-up

A selection of goings-on from the last few months, none of which seemed deserving of its own post!  But I have photos and nowhere else to put them, so here they are.

First, our annual New Year trip to Scotland, this time to Mull.  Staying right on the shore, we enjoyed spotting otters, sea eagles and the Northern Lights, plus a Corbett, some Grahams, a cave, some pottering and a great sunny/snowy mountaineering day out on Ben More.  Unfortunately I’d forgotten to charge my camera battery and didn’t have a spare…

Next, I joined an Eagle Ski Club off-piste skiing course taught by the highly recommended Alison Culshaw, based in Chamonix.  It was the coldest week of the winter (-20), but sunny and very profitable from a learning-to-ski-properly point of view.

Dave was feeling left out, so we planned a weekend in Scotland at the end of January to try some Scottish skiing.  But we didn’t think there was enough snow, and reverted to Plan B (some efficient bagging of the Lawers Munros on foot).  However, the van had other ideas when the alternator packed up on Friday night in Glenogle between Lochearnhead and Killin.  Having spent the night there we visited the local garage, who couldn’t fix us and advised that we “enjoy our holiday” and get the AA to tow us home on Sunday.  By now having wasted half the day and being stuck in Killin in steadily falling (slightly solid) rain, Lawers was out the question.  Instead: brunch, then a walk back up Glenogle and a consolation Graham, Meall Buidhe.  We spent all of Sunday getting home…

My birthday fell on a Saturday this year, so we invited the local duffers for a walk round the Langdale Pikes (really just an excuse for a get-together).

David came to visit us for a weekend to tick off some of our local Marilyns.  We’d been up Sharp Haw on the Skipton skyline before, but our route this time (from Flasby) was much nicer, and this time we visited neighbouring Rough Haw too.  As that was a short morning’s work, we headed to Ilkley in the afternoon to explore its famous Moor (it was too cold for any baht ‘at nonsense, mind you).  On Sunday we visited Brontë country for a slightly grim circuit of Boulsworth Hill, Top Withens and the Walshaw Dean Reservoirs.  The mist didn’t lift all day, hence no pictures…

At the start of March we visited Eleri in St Andrews.  Rain and mist confined us a walk along the Fife coast path on Saturday, from which the sea was only visible when we were actually on the beach.  On Sunday, we did a pleasant loop from Auchtermuchty around Pitmedden Forest.  Highlights were the nice woodland, views of the Firth of Tay, a deer farm and the slightly incongruous hot tub business.

Snowy November Lakes

Although most of the snow was fast disappearing by the weekend, we did manage a couple of days on the hill. Firstly a round of Kentmere, with a surprising number of friends that responded to our last minute plans. The weather was amazingly warm and windless, so combined with the snow made for a fun day. After sampling a selection of offerings at Hawkshead Brewery and Wilfs Cafe on Saturday night, we managed to drag ourselves out for a second day around the Fairfield horseshoe, which was less snowy and more cloudy, but still good fun, and only a couple of hours from home.

 

Southern Cairngorms

August bank holiday backpacking from Linn of Dee.  Jo finally gets to see the Cairngorm plateau, free from mist and snow, in all its bouldery, heathery, grassy glory – albeit through a cloud of midges…

Yorkshire in the evening

In June, without very much notice, we moved to Skipton. Well, Dave did, and Jo is attempting to be there as much as possible while working in Oakham (currently managing about half time). Although we’re both working hard, we’ve already found a couple of benefits of our new location…

Soon after moving, we joined a large group of friends to celebrate Ruth’s 30th birthday in Buttermere. (OK, not strictly Yorkshire but with the recent extension of the Dales national park into Cumbria, not far off.) This turned out to be more exercise than expected, especially for Dave who, after a whole-group round of Red Pike, High Stile etc, Haystacks and Fleetwith Pike, was persuaded to join some speedy people in continuing around the skyline to Dale Head, Hindscarth and Robinson. Meanwhile, Jo was more interested in making it to the ice cream shop before closing time. On Sunday we re-bagged Mellbreak and discovered that yet more of our friends are in danger of becoming fell runners, before driving home in two hours – a strong contender for the best bit of the weekend.

We’ve also been out and about in the evenings. With evening-size hills in most directions from Skipton we’re a bit spoiled for choice and still trying to work out the best parking places, crags and routes avoiding various walls, bogs and insect hotspots. Being able to cycle to Bolton Abbey after work is also quite exciting.

Jolly slushy

Our annual Cairngorms jolly with expedition friends was the first for years that we haven’t snatched at least one climb (soft, melting snow made the gullies unattractive and meant anything more interesting wasn’t in condition).

Instead we headed onto the plateau, aiming for an unlikely ascent of Macdui amid strong winds and deep slush, more than half expecting to decide not to bother before we got too far into the blanket cloud. Amazingly, another pair of unenthused climbers decided to join us, and we were very grateful for the extra trail-breaking capability! There was a strong headwind on the lower slopes, but even when it started raining and we lost visibility it didn’t really seem bad enough to turn back, so on we went. Actually the snow was reasonably solid up high. Dave thoroughly enjoyed navigating in a whiteout, especially when we found the summit at the first time of asking after several featureless kilometres on the same bearing. Somewhat surprisingly it wasn’t windy at all there, so we enjoyed a sandwich before heading back to the corrie edge, pausing to inspect some palatial snow holes on the way. Less surprisingly, we didn’t see anyone until we reached the top of the climbs and the ski slopes. Back at the car by mid-afternoon, feeling quite pleased with ourselves!

A similar venture the following day didn’t appeal and we opted for a low-level walk up to Loch Eanaich (between Sgor Gaoith and Braeriach). Varied scenery, a good leg stretch and quite spring-like in the lower reaches of the glen.

On Monday there was time for a morning’s outing before heading home. In glorious sunshine we drove towards Schiehallion, only to discover that it appeared to be the only mountain in the Highlands in cloud! Luckily it dissipated before we reached the summit and our main concern was the brilliant reflections off the snow patches (we’d accidentally left our sunglasses in the car)…

Back (and front) of Skiddaw

A weekend of walking in the Northern Fells of the Lake District.

On Saturday we planned a long walk, aiming to come back in the dark, but then found we walked too fast, it was too cold to hang around, and it gets dark later than anticipated. Despite started in the sunshine it soon became overcast, but with good views, especially north and west. After walking over Lowthwaite Fell, Brae Fell, Great Sca Fell, Knott, Great Calva and Meal Fell, we stopped for hot chocolate, then dropped over Great and Little Cockup back to the van. Determined to be out in the dark, we then headed up Binsey without a map. We got back to the van without using head torches, having ultimately failed to do any night navigation. Despite having dodged the main aim of the day, we retired into the van for some very welcome chilli.

Sunday had the best weather for a long time, and we headed up through the forest and up the ridge to Long Side and onto Skiddaw (where we found a cloud). The ascent of Skiddaw was steep on frozen scree and compacted snow making it a gruelling ascent, not helped by getting tangled in a group that were walking faster than us but stopping every ten paces. We avoided the crowds by taking an alternative route down, but still over Carl Side and Dodd, where we felt out of place with ice axes and no dog.

After a speedy shopping trip in Keswick we headed down the road, with a quick stop in Lancaster for some freshly baked scones.

New Year road trip

Here are a few pictures from our travels around the country over Christmas and New Year. None from the first part of the trip in Surrey – we did manage a couple of muddy walks in the North Downs in between the showers, but didn’t take the camera. Heading north, a brief sojourn in the Peak District provided the opportunity for a sunny wander up Win Hill before we continued on to Scotland.

Although we were van-based, it was a more sociable trip than the last time we took the van to Scotland over New Year as we spent time with groups of friends in Shiel Bridge and Kingussie on most evenings, and joined them for several walks. The weather was better in the west, so we headed there first and walked up Carn Ghluasaid and neighbours north of Loch Cluanie. Quite windy but still enjoyable, especially when the clouds cleared for the third Munro and descent. The following day Storm Frank hit the Highlands, but with some careful planning and a bit of bloody-mindedness we found a suitable Corbett – Meall Dubh from Glen Moriston – that we could walk up the lee side of, partly on wind farm tracks. It was pretty wet and breezy and steep heather away from the tracks made hard going, but still good to get out.

Our next plan (to park at the bottom of Geal Charn near Glen Markie) was thwarted when we drove into the River Spey on the approach road. Hastily retreating, we arrived instead in Kingussie to find flood warnings and sandbags – but the waters were already receding and they weren’t needed. We joined a mass New Year’s Eve ascent of Carn na Caim and A’Bhuidheanach Bheag, which were quite snowy and almost sunny, despite being in the cloud. An excellent forecast for the 1st led us to a repeat round of the Creag Meagaidh hills, which we had previously done in blizzard conditions. Although the visibility was significantly better this time, there were also very strong winds and spindrift, so it wasn’t entirely dissimilar!

After a cold night in the van in the Meagaidh car park, we were uninspired by the options for the last day of the trip and enjoyed a lazy few hours pottering around Loch Morlich and Rothiemurchus Forest, before returning to Kingussie to help deal with an excess of wine and an underused snooker table…

Torridon

After our sailing antics (see post below), Dave spent a month in Perth interning at a wind analysis company. We managed to meet up in the middle (Teesdale) for a weekend, mostly spent slobbing in the van, battling through heather on some obscure moor, drinking wine by Cow Green Reservoir, and walking along the Pennine Way in what appeared (judging by everyone else) to be the wrong direction. It was a good weekend, but not really deserving of its own blog post.

However, at the end of Dave’s internship we had a proper trip, courtesy of a Farrow family wedding in Torridon. Our first mountain fix on the long trip north was Glencoe, where the sun was out – along with the tourist coaches and bagpipers. We soon left the crowds behind as we headed up Bidean via the zig zags onto Gearr Aonach, and Stob Coire nan Lochan. From “zig zags” I was expecting a beneath-an-alpine-lift-style slog, but they turned out to be significantly more fun in an unlikey-secret-passage kind of way. It was absurdly hot and we found ourselves sheltering in the shade of every suitable rock for a drink. At the summit we watched a mountain rescue helicopter collecting a search team from the next top, then descended down the Lost Valley (we had been contemplating adding Sgreamhach to the day, but we’d only started at 11 having driven up from Glasgow, and still had a 4-hour drive to Torridon to go).

Unfortunately, by the time we’d washed all the sweat off, most of the drive was in the dark, but we did have dinner watching a spectacular sunset over the Grey Corries from the Spean Bridge Commando Memorial, and the full moon lit up the landscapes (and deer) around Glen Shiel and Lochcarron as we passed through.

The next day we did the classic traverse of Liathach – a complete contrast to our previous ascent, which had been unrelentingly grey and drizzly. It was very warm and windless again, but much of the steep ascent was in mist as we climbed through the cloud that had shrouded the mountainside after sunrise. As we gained the ridge we just rose above the cloud into the sunshine, and watched as it all gradually cleared below us over the course of an hour or so. We had fun scrambling over the pinnacles and managed to descend with our knees just about intact. The walk finished with a refreshing dip in the river Torridon, followed by drying off on a sunny slab of gneiss while eating haggis-flavoured crisps (then hastily retreating to escape the evening midges).

Normal service resumed on Friday as we completed a damp, misty and viewless round of Ben Alligin – much the same as the previous time we climbed it, only in the other direction and incorporating a less-frequented nose ascent route (Na Fasreidhnean).

On the day of the wedding itself there was only time for a morning “stroll” – on a somewhat deceptive coastal path from Inveralligin to Diabeg. Although we’d only really intended to go halfway and then reverse, the groom was having so much fun that we carried on – over countless lumps and bumps, through a squally shower, down a cliff face, and finally back along a road containing no fewer than seven up arrows and seven down arrows, all at a pace that was more of a run than a walk. A decent warm-up for the evening’s ceilidh!

Wasdale

This one had been in the calendar for a while. When my parents retired, they decided to reset their Wainwright count (not that they had been counting) and do them all again. As they got closer to finishing, it was decided that their 214th Wainwright would be Scafell Pike, and that they would climb it on my Dad’s 70th birthday, 3rd July 2015. And so it was that 20-odd family and friends (mostly from the Castle MC) converged on Wasdale Head for a long weekend of celebration and generally having fun in the mountains.

A last-minute work trip to Finland happily managed to just avoid disrupting best-laid plans, and the yellow van picked me up from Manchester Airport en route to the Lakes. Torrential rain and traffic cleared to a wonderful drive over Ulpha Fell, and we arrived in time to join the party, who had taken over a sizeable corner of the Wasdale Head Inn (the birthplace of British climbing, as we were frequently reminded), for a drink. As usual, most people knew who I was while I had no idea who several of them were – though it was worse for Dave, who knew even fewer people, but was nevertheless immediately called on to participate in a “who’s taller” contest. The fact that around 20% of the party were called Dave didn’t help matters! We then spent a comfortable night on the green undisturbed by the relatively small number of Three Peakers (it being Thursday – more inevitably turned up later in the weekend).

Friday’s ascent of Lingmell and Scafell Pike went off without a hitch and in glorious sunshine. Summit celebrations included prosecco, ginger cake and pork pies with candles in. We descended via the Corridor Route and Lingmell Beck. Some of the party stopped to cool off in the pools of the beck, but Dave and I had bigger ideas and continued down to the valley. We had a quick change and paddled/swam down the river to Wast Water, where we managed a good 5-10 minutes of actual swimming (and very pleasant it was too, although we found that as soon as we ventured away from the river mouth it got a lot colder). Back with just enough time for showers before an excellent dinner and more cake.

A wild night (in terms of wind and rain rather than behaviour, in case that needed clarifying) ensued as the weather broke, and we spent a largely grey, damp Saturday pottering over Yewbarrow.

Sunday was much better, and we decided to get some of the driving out of the way in the morning by heading to Coniston. The van only just made it over Hardknott Pass – I think we’ll tick that one off and not bother again. There wasn’t time for any worthwhile climbing so we left the rope behind and joined up three scrambles to make a most enjoyable ascent of Brim Fell: The Bell, Low Water Beck and the crags below Brim Fell itself. Low Water Beck was the pick of the three – good rock, excellent positions alongside the tumbling falls, almost entirely dry and never too precarious. We finished the day by running over Swirl How and down Coppermines Valley, getting caught in a couple of summer showers but drying off before we got back to the van.