Foray into the Cairngorms

Posted on February 18, 2014 by yellowvanmountaineering

Last weekend we headed up to see some expedition friends in the Cairngorms. Looking at a forecast of high winds, low cloud, snow, and high avalanche risk, we decided not to take any time off work and just go for the weekend.

The drive up on Friday started well, but we soon slowed to 25 mph from Stirling to Perth with reasonable snow drifts on the road. We didn’t know that road went particularly high, so we thought we might be in for a very long night north of Perth. Surprisingly the roads cleared after Perth – maybe the gritters were caught off guard in the wrong place. We arrived at 0030, found some beds and collapsed into them.

We woke surprisingly early and easily the next day – and then sat around at breakfast while everyone was uninspired. Eventually, people split with some going to Aviemore, some having a look in the Northern Corries, and a group that we joined going up Meall a Bhuachaille. We managed to stay out the cloud for most of it and the views over Glen Mor and Loch Morlich were spectacular. The snow soon started though and the wind really picked up as we reached the summit and turned to descend directly into it. A great wee ridge for the weather, and it’s been a while since we were on it. Great to have a leg stretch and see what the conditions were like.

Sunday had a better weather forecast, but with loads of snow on the ground and a drive home to do, we wanted something new, short and climbable. A look around the guidebooks found nothing. A few people had seen climbers in previous years on the crag at Sron na cho above the Ciste car park, on the east side of the 1028 spot height, so we thought that might be an option, being slightly lower than the main corries. In addition, I’d spotted a crag (GR NJ002069), visible from the Ciste car park, from Meall a Bhuachaille the previous day. I believe this crag is called Cranberry Rocks, I haven’t found much more about it.

We went exploring.

From the car park the crag looked plausible, so we decided to stop by before heading over the top to the higher crags at Sron na cho. Once at the bottom of the crag, we spotted a couple of likely routes. The ice and snow was just firm enough to allow winter climbing so we got started. I thought the first ice gully looked a bit interesting and so started on something a bit easier. The slab round the corner was still some of the harder mixed climbing I’ve done. I bailed below the second bluff with powdery snow above it, where the line and my confidence ran out. I belayed there, and then traversed out to find the start of a second line. An initial difficulty gave way to straightforward climbing leading me straight into a chimney crux. Despite having not climbed for 9 months I was feeling good and tackled the harder line rather than the gully exit round the side. I must admit Jo made the crux look more elegant than I could, despite having the hot aches.

We went back down for some lunch and then tackled the ‘harder’ ice gully. Turned out to be straightforward, bold and well trodden but nevertheless enjoyable. We sat enjoying the sun and lack of wind for a while and then headed home. An excellent crag for the day – allowed us to push our climbing unwittingly, and have a little exploring fun just out of the car park. Also allowed me to play with my new axes, and for Jo to tangle my new rope.

Descending from Meall a Bhuachaille

Raised Ptarmigan prints, with the crag behind

First pitch

First bluff on the slab

2nd pitch fun (I knocked out some gear, and had a moment until I replaced it)

straight forward until the last chimney

Ice gully

The view from the gully.

Alpine feeling at the top

North York Moors

Posted on February 3, 2014 by yellowvanmountaineering

We’d originally earmarked this weekend for winter climbing, or if not, joining the CUHWC trip to Capel Curig, but the forecast for our usual mountain haunts was even more grim than usual. Deciding we’d had enough of battling wind and precipitation against the backdrop of the inside of a cloud, we headed north east instead, in search of pastures new, low and hopefully sunny.

The three-hour drive from Oakham to Kirkbymoorside was pleasantly short, allowing us to leave after dinner and arrive in good time to find a parking spot and enjoy a beer before bed. We are now discovering some of the true joys of the van – no need to worry about booking somewhere to stay, being able to change plans at the last minute, yet far more civilised and less effort than camping.

We couldn’t quite believe our luck on waking to glorious sunshine, and set off from our parking spot on Harland Moor to do an anticlockwise round of Farndale, via Blakey Ridge, the Coast to Coast to Bloworth Crossing, and Rudland Rigg. It did get rather windy later, and we found the track walking somewhat monotonous. However, these were minor gripes, and not enough to stop us detouring to bag Round Hill on Urra Moor – the high point of the North York Moors at 454m! We then spent the evening at the fantastic Lion Inn on High Blakey Moor, which we’d scouted out earlier, enjoying the welcoming atmosphere and hearty portions.

Parking on a ridge in strong winds was perhaps not our best idea, but it was close to the pub, and anyway the van stayed upright overnight. On Sunday we headed to the coast to explore Whitby and walk from Robin Hood’s Bay to Ravenscar and back. Disappointingly, the cafe at Boggle Hole wasn’t open for cream teas, but we finally tracked one down at the Yorkshire Hotel to round off the weekend perfectly.

Photos from Scotland and Seathwaite

Posted on January 12, 2014 by yellowvanmountaineering

Here are some photos from our recent trip to Scotland (most of which is described in the post below).

After escaping from the Onich traffic jam, we made our way to Glenfinnan to position ourselves for a round of the two Munros there, Sgurr nan Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm, the next day. After a nice walk up the long track to Glenfinnan Lodge, the weather got us again, and we spent the rest of the day battling rain, wind and snow in the clouds. We were glad to follow a couple of sets of footprints, which we later found to have been left by Michael and Alex P two days previously! We made it round slightly quicker then expected due to favourable snow conditions, and as we descended out of the blizzard, the sun shone incredibly over the glen.

After four “quality winter days” we were very glad to spend the evening and welcome the new year in the company of friends at Borrodale House near Arisaig, where we were warmly welcomed with tea, sherry, enthusiasm, and a singing lobster.

The next day we got up in the light for the first time of the trip, and enjoyed a stroll along the beach before heading south.

Two days later we were back in the hills, this time joining CUHWC at Seathwaite in Borrowdale for the weekend. The weather was no better than it had been in Scotland, but there was considerably less snow on the ground. Our walks took us from Buttermere to Seathwaite via Robinson, Hindscarth and Dale Head, and over Eagle Crag and Sergeant’s Crag.

Glen Lyon Munros

Meall nan Aighean

Bridge on the way to Bheinn Fhionnlaidh

Glen Etive from Bheinn Fhionnlaidh

North ridge of Ben Starav

Descending into Glen Finnan

The viaduct

The beach at Borrodale House

Buttermere

Heading for Dale Head

The snow ghost of Dale Head

The road to Seathwaite

Summit of Eagle Crag

Last few days of 2013

Posted on December 30, 2013 by yellowvanmountaineering

As we’re currently stuck in a traffic jam near Fort William I thought we should blog. We’ve been here for three days and dispute the weather have had some good days out.

Firstly we spent a day in Glen Lyon, doing a high level traverse of 4 Munro’s. Having blown away the cobwebs and had a long day we opted for an easier next day. Beinn Fhionnliadh from Glen Etive was not as short as expected. We had an initial false start having camped in the wrong place and had to relocate down the Glen. Then we found the bridge has been washed away so started the long walk towards the col. At 12 we eventually got across and started climbing. As we were higher up than expected we took an alternative route into the corrie and onto the north east ridge. A great ridge followed by the expected summit ridge with some interesting winter steps.

Today we had a longer day around Ben Starav and Glas Bheinn Mhor, with the unexpectedly fun ridge descent from Starav. Great mountaineering day.

Snow is a bit wet but firm in places, nice and calm but cloud making us navigate occasionally.

Our van is excellent, having not been to a campsite, we haven’t been cold once although we are getting slowly wetter as the trip goes on.

Pictures will follow once we are at a computer. All spelling mistakes curtasy of the tablet keyboard

The accident has now cleared, so I’ll post this.

Slight delay as the car in front breaks down and blocks traffic in both directions…

Van accessories

Posted on December 17, 2013 by yellowvanmountaineering

We bought a few things for the van to make it more homely, including enough tea to make it through many long winter nights.

Exciting kit for the van

Dave is also frantically adding the final touches to the van so we don’t have things sliding off shelves, water getting everywhere or have a power outage.

Tea collection

Jo’s new car

Image

Jo's new car

We’ve got a car to keep the van company! Although the car will be based in Oakham most of the time.

It’s now a campervan

Posted on November 24, 2013 by yellowvanmountaineering

The last few weeks we’ve been too busy to post, and the few weeks before that were frantically finishing the van.

We spent a few weeks varnishing at every available moment – sometimes squeezing a quick coat in before work, while dinner was cooking or just before bed.

We then spent a weekend putting all the furniture in van – which was surprisingly difficult to ensure things were vaguely straight and upright. We also had to incorporate fixing the water pump, pipes and gas regulator at appropriate points to ensure we had room to fix things down.

During the next week Dave spent most of his spare time working out how the sliding table rail and leg (that were meant to work together) would ever fit nicely in the van. After a few days, the table leg was cut in half. Drastic, but it works very well, although we do have the lower half of the leg floating around the van ready to be used when the table is put up.

This all meant that we had everything needed to change the DVLA status of the van to a motor caravan. It also allows us to change the insurance to that of a motor caravan rather than a motor caravan in conversion.

It doesn’t mean the van is finished though. We still need to connect some of the electrics (mains charger and usb chargers for our electronics) and fit removable things such storage boxes, pots, pans, plates etc etc. The window insulation also needs some thought.

Further plans include some major renovations to the cab interior and maybe the addition of a sound system for the rear.

We have spent a few nights in it though – a quick trip to Scotland for a wedding, and a CUHWC trip to the Lakes. We found the van a bit cold on some nights, but lovely and warm on others. Living in it has shown us what we need to add to the van – but doing those things may take a while in the cold Cambridge evenings.

The build starts

Essentials – drill, screws, and ‘stixall’

some final adjustments…

The gas box with magnets and seals

Trying to keep the pipes and electronics clear of the build

Shelves in

water pump in

installing the water pump

piles of varnished things waiting to go in

Gas box with regulator being installed

so the gas box needed a little extension to meet the drop out

in place – looks surprising good!

glue to seal the butter tub in place

end of the day – everything looking good, but still quite a bit to go

checking the stove top lid works

view of the bodge that keeps the worktop tied down the correct level.

Stove connected

It works!

Attempting to get the table level

sink all plumbed in

The living area

Seating area

Sleeping area

Norway

Posted on October 7, 2013 by yellowvanmountaineering

For six weeks from the middle of July, we went to northern Norway with the British Exploring Society – Dave as a Mountain Leader and Jo as a Science Leader. We were based in Nuvsfjorden, near the town of Øksfjord, some 200 miles inside the Arctic Circle. The expedition consisted of 16 leaders, 14 trainee leaders, and around 50 “Young Explorers”, split into smaller groups for science work and adventurous activities.

We were part of the advance party, which established various camps and carried out an initial recce on the access glacier to the Øksfjordjokelen ice cap, around which we hoped to undertake a week-long journey. Unfortunately we were subsequently plagued by a week of very hot, sunny weather, which – while being very pleasant for swimming in glacial meltwater and similar activities – meant that the upper glaciers became inaccessible as their snow covering melted and exposed some rather serious crevasse fields.

Despite this setback, the expedition carried out some worthwhile exploration of the surrounding valleys, ridges and coasts, and science projects including geology mapping, biodiversity surveys, hydrological measurements, and marine sampling to investigate ocean acidification. We did some mountaineering training on the lower glaciers and nearby boulders, saw the midnight sun, ate a large amount of bilberries, learned bushcraft skills, and caught mackerel from the fjord. There was also a lot of companionable tea-drinking and chatting with new friends, as well as the opportunity to properly relax away from the demands of life back at home.

A highlight of the trip was a sub-expedition to the island of Sørøya, during which we ran a Gold DofE qualifying expedition. The island was beautiful, with rolling rocky hills, clear lakes, exciting geology and several stunning sunsets – highly recommended. We also got a good taste of Norwegian culture and history here, spending some time in the main town of Hasvik and visiting a cave in which local residents sheltered for several months during the Second World War.

Jo’s and Dave’s photos are online in the usual place, with a selection below to give a flavour of the trip.