Stockholm Sailing

A 256 nm tour of the Stockholm Archipelago and the Åland Islands.

We all arrived at one of the largest marinas in the Baltic, Bullandö, late on Sunday afternoon. We quickly stowed the vast quantities of food and got underway, sailing downwind for about an hour to a quiet anchorage (Munko) for the evening. The next day set the pattern for the rest of the trip – morning swims, sailing through islands, finding a spot for lunch, and more sailing to an evening mooring. After anchoring on the first night, we learnt the Baltic way of dropping the stern anchor and nosing the bow just to the rocks and tying up to a tree or ring. A combination of Swedish and German pilots books, plus recommendations from one of Jo’s colleagues allowed us to pick our lunch and dinner spots. After the first night at Munko, we sailed past Sandhamn to Bjorkskar for lunch, then on to Rödlöga for the evening. The following day, still sailing downwind, we crossed to the Åland Islands, landing at Stegskär. We treated ourselves to a marina (and fish and chips) the next night, at the natural harbour of Käringsund, before learning to tack in slowly increasing winds the following day crossing back to Sweden, stopping opposite a military base on Styrjans Hamn. The weather turned from constant sun to occasional rain, but this didn’t stop us swimming and sailing via Granhamn for lunch, and then through some interesting inter-island passages to Paradisvik/Finnhamn for a sunset mooring. Our final day started with swimming in the rain, then we headed to Säck for lunch and losing each other in the forest, before finally heading to the Bullandö Marina.

Petit Tour de Manche

When Dave unexpectedly gained rather a lot of holiday, we decided to use a week of it cycle touring in France and the Channel Islands at the start of July. A long-distance route called the Petit Tour de Manche (its grand cousin extends further west into Brittany and Devon) formed the basis for this, although required some tweaks as there are no longer regular ferries from Weymouth to France.

So we took the van to Poole (getting caught up in various road closures and traffic chaos on the way), spent half a night in it, left it parked in a posh-looking cul-de-sac, and caught an early ferry to Cherbourg.  Over the next couple of days we wound our way south down the Cotentin Peninsula, enjoying the Normandy countryside (marshes and bocage) and towns and an interesting detour to Utah Beach.  A good day or so was spent following the Vire river valley – often on the voie verte, a series of old railway lines.  As the weather became sunnier and hotter, we turned west and were soon in sight (albeit way across the marshes) of Mont-Saint-Michel, which we later spent a pleasant evening wandering around as the crowds thinned out.  A final day in France took us into Brittany, zooming along the rocky coast to Cancale and St-Malo, and on an evening ferry to St Helier.

This felt a bit like the start of another holiday, since we now had two days to explore Jersey, and the weather was still hot and sunny.  As the round-island route is only 40ish miles, this was very leisurely and involved a large number of food, drink and paddling/swimming stops.  We decided we liked Jersey, once we stopped expecting it to be like the Scottish islands and accepted that there would inevitably be a cafe and other people on every beach!  A final evening ferry brought us back to Poole (via Guernsey), where we were relieved to find the van exactly as we had left it.

All in all, a nice relaxed tour through varied scenery, with great campsites, some history, and countless opportunities for excellent food and drink (and the good weather might have helped a bit too!)

Strans Gill

On one of the last weekends in Skipton, we wanted to go climbing, but it was rather hot. We opted for a (dry) ascent of Strans Gill.

Yorkshire Spring

A few pictures (from the phone) from our last few weeks around Skipton.

Long weekend in Müllheim

We finally got round to visiting Alex and Ausma in southern Germany. Em and Bernhard joined us from Zurich for an excellent weekend of wining, dining and walking…

Aberdeen Angus (but no steak)

Over the Easter weekend we took the van to eastern Scotland, for a mixture of Munros and cycling (and quite a lot of “motor touring”, aka driving around).

We began with a coastal cycle from Arbroath (where we ended up when we discovered that our planned camping spot near Carnoustie was the wrong side of a <2m railway bridge).  Heading northwards along Route One, we enjoyed views of sandy beaches, flowering gorse and a lot of polytunnels.  So to Montrose for cake, after which we turned inland, negotiated an “interesting” farm track, struggled through the aptly named Hillside, then zoomed into Brechin for lunch at its (apparently famous?) cathedral.  The afternoon was spent battling headwinds on long, straight, undulating roads, but we were finally rewarded with an easy descent back into Arbroath.  We then drove up into Glen Clova and enjoyed an evening in the hotel bar, where the steak was more than twice the price of anything else on the menu, so we didn’t have it…

On Saturday we met David –  who happened to be in the area – for some ticking of Driesh and Mayar, ascending from Glen Doll via the Kilbo path and returning by Jock’s Road.  The weather was mostly sunny, which didn’t stop a biting wind delivering a battering of light snow for an hour or so.  After the summits, we continued to Dun Hillocks and followed a little burn through some remote-feeling moorland to the plateau edge, where there were spectacular views down the glen.  Unfortunately the burn then descended over a cliff and we couldn’t quite find a way down, so a short detour was required to return us to the path.  Having left David to bag a bonus Corbett, the evening’s drive took us out to Stonehaven, then back inland through Banchory to Alford and a lovely camping spot on top of Suie Hill in deepest Aberdeenshire.

This delightful position was less appreciated the next morning when we had to put on all our jackets and gloves to roll down the hill on a chilly and grey (but dry) Easter morning.  We soon warmed up on speedy roads through a variety of interesting villages towards Kemnay, and arrived at our intended afternoon tea stop at Castle Fraser around 11.30… Back on the road after coffee and scones, we cycled alongside the River Don back to Alford and up the biggest hill of the day to finish at the van.  Our next overnight spot was Invermark at the top of Glen Esk.  We spent most of the evening trying to work out why on earth a police car seemed interested enough in another car to wait two hours for the owner to return.  It’s still a mystery.

We were now perfectly placed for a quick ascent of Mount Keen the following day, which was duly completed, with good views of the main Cairngorms.  Heading south by around 2, concluding a successful trip exploring a new area and avoiding the worst of the weather!

French skiing

A week of ski touring with Tom, from a rather comfortable base in La Bâtie des Vigneux near Briançon (thanks, Hares!).  Mostly day tours with one overnight in the Queyras.

Spring catch-up

A selection of goings-on from the last few months, none of which seemed deserving of its own post!  But I have photos and nowhere else to put them, so here they are.

First, our annual New Year trip to Scotland, this time to Mull.  Staying right on the shore, we enjoyed spotting otters, sea eagles and the Northern Lights, plus a Corbett, some Grahams, a cave, some pottering and a great sunny/snowy mountaineering day out on Ben More.  Unfortunately I’d forgotten to charge my camera battery and didn’t have a spare…

Next, I joined an Eagle Ski Club off-piste skiing course taught by the highly recommended Alison Culshaw, based in Chamonix.  It was the coldest week of the winter (-20), but sunny and very profitable from a learning-to-ski-properly point of view.

Dave was feeling left out, so we planned a weekend in Scotland at the end of January to try some Scottish skiing.  But we didn’t think there was enough snow, and reverted to Plan B (some efficient bagging of the Lawers Munros on foot).  However, the van had other ideas when the alternator packed up on Friday night in Glenogle between Lochearnhead and Killin.  Having spent the night there we visited the local garage, who couldn’t fix us and advised that we “enjoy our holiday” and get the AA to tow us home on Sunday.  By now having wasted half the day and being stuck in Killin in steadily falling (slightly solid) rain, Lawers was out the question.  Instead: brunch, then a walk back up Glenogle and a consolation Graham, Meall Buidhe.  We spent all of Sunday getting home…

My birthday fell on a Saturday this year, so we invited the local duffers for a walk round the Langdale Pikes (really just an excuse for a get-together).

David came to visit us for a weekend to tick off some of our local Marilyns.  We’d been up Sharp Haw on the Skipton skyline before, but our route this time (from Flasby) was much nicer, and this time we visited neighbouring Rough Haw too.  As that was a short morning’s work, we headed to Ilkley in the afternoon to explore its famous Moor (it was too cold for any baht ‘at nonsense, mind you).  On Sunday we visited Brontë country for a slightly grim circuit of Boulsworth Hill, Top Withens and the Walshaw Dean Reservoirs.  The mist didn’t lift all day, hence no pictures…

At the start of March we visited Eleri in St Andrews.  Rain and mist confined us a walk along the Fife coast path on Saturday, from which the sea was only visible when we were actually on the beach.  On Sunday, we did a pleasant loop from Auchtermuchty around Pitmedden Forest.  Highlights were the nice woodland, views of the Firth of Tay, a deer farm and the slightly incongruous hot tub business.