Torridon

After our sailing antics (see post below), Dave spent a month in Perth interning at a wind analysis company. We managed to meet up in the middle (Teesdale) for a weekend, mostly spent slobbing in the van, battling through heather on some obscure moor, drinking wine by Cow Green Reservoir, and walking along the Pennine Way in what appeared (judging by everyone else) to be the wrong direction. It was a good weekend, but not really deserving of its own blog post.

However, at the end of Dave’s internship we had a proper trip, courtesy of a Farrow family wedding in Torridon. Our first mountain fix on the long trip north was Glencoe, where the sun was out – along with the tourist coaches and bagpipers. We soon left the crowds behind as we headed up Bidean via the zig zags onto Gearr Aonach, and Stob Coire nan Lochan. From “zig zags” I was expecting a beneath-an-alpine-lift-style slog, but they turned out to be significantly more fun in an unlikey-secret-passage kind of way. It was absurdly hot and we found ourselves sheltering in the shade of every suitable rock for a drink. At the summit we watched a mountain rescue helicopter collecting a search team from the next top, then descended down the Lost Valley (we had been contemplating adding Sgreamhach to the day, but we’d only started at 11 having driven up from Glasgow, and still had a 4-hour drive to Torridon to go).

Unfortunately, by the time we’d washed all the sweat off, most of the drive was in the dark, but we did have dinner watching a spectacular sunset over the Grey Corries from the Spean Bridge Commando Memorial, and the full moon lit up the landscapes (and deer) around Glen Shiel and Lochcarron as we passed through.

The next day we did the classic traverse of Liathach – a complete contrast to our previous ascent, which had been unrelentingly grey and drizzly. It was very warm and windless again, but much of the steep ascent was in mist as we climbed through the cloud that had shrouded the mountainside after sunrise. As we gained the ridge we just rose above the cloud into the sunshine, and watched as it all gradually cleared below us over the course of an hour or so. We had fun scrambling over the pinnacles and managed to descend with our knees just about intact. The walk finished with a refreshing dip in the river Torridon, followed by drying off on a sunny slab of gneiss while eating haggis-flavoured crisps (then hastily retreating to escape the evening midges).

Normal service resumed on Friday as we completed a damp, misty and viewless round of Ben Alligin – much the same as the previous time we climbed it, only in the other direction and incorporating a less-frequented nose ascent route (Na Fasreidhnean).

On the day of the wedding itself there was only time for a morning “stroll” – on a somewhat deceptive coastal path from Inveralligin to Diabeg. Although we’d only really intended to go halfway and then reverse, the groom was having so much fun that we carried on – over countless lumps and bumps, through a squally shower, down a cliff face, and finally back along a road containing no fewer than seven up arrows and seven down arrows, all at a pace that was more of a run than a walk. A decent warm-up for the evening’s ceilidh!

Sailing around Mull

Dave is a bit bored of rewriting things, so when this blog post didn’t save the first time round it took a while to get round to doing it again. However, here it is, and hopefully the rest of our trips since the summer will follow shortly.

In August, we found ourselves in Oban on the first sunny day of the season worrying about the lack of wind. We were about to take charge of a charter yacht and have a week sailing with Jo’s parents.

The first few days we had fantastic weather – warm, sunny, just enough wind to get along the long exposed and shelterless south coast of Mull  to a truly amazing anchorage and swimming near Iona with clear (cold) water and blue skies. After a short stop on Iona, the weather was perfect for a sail close around Staffa and Treshnish Isles, where we heard (and saw) lots of seals and birds.  We then anchored in lovely but quite space-limited and rather isolated spot off Gometra (NW Mull) and enjoyed a wonderful sunset.

The next morning our intended fast exit failed when we found all our batteries were flat.  The wind was getting up, and we didn’t really have enough chain out to stay where we were for long (but couldn’t put more out as we would swing onto the rocks). The crew of the other boat in the anchorage had gone ashore, but luckily we were saved from having to sail out of our enclosed bay in gusty winds by a couple of blokes from a nearby fish farm with a spare battery. I was just tightening up the spare battery when Jo shouted something about another boat being quite close. I thought nothing of this and continued connecting the battery until the message was that the boat was within a length of us. By the time I was on deck, the other boat was being pushed off the bow, and a quick check showed that it was them moving not us. By now the wind had picked up considerably, and while the fish farm boat had towed the drifting boat into the back of the bay, they couldn’t make it stick. It soon became clear that this runaway boat was in serious danger of drifting onto rocks/out into the Atlantic, and we didn’t know for certain if anyone was on board or not. On the advice of the coastguard, we carefully manoeuvred our yacht so that Dave could jump between the boats, which required some skilful helming not to ground our own yacht.

I found myself aboard a smart looking Vancouver 34 about to hit some rocks. Thankfully the key was in the ignition and engine started first time, after which I followed Jo to open water. I could then turn the instruments on, get the anchor up and clear the 1 m diameter ball of seaweed off the anchor. After having a few moments to collect my thoughts, I realised I was going to have to anchor this unknown boat single handed. The thought that letting it ground in the bay would be better than it drifting out to sea or being dashed against rocks gave me some comfort. Even once anchored, the excitement continued as I found (or rather didn’t find) the engine is switched off in an unusual place, so I was forced to leave the engine running. Jo did an excellent job of running alongside the anchored boat and picked me off at high speed with only minor bumping as the wind buffeted both boats.

By this time, the rain joined the increasing wind and it was an easy decision to head for Tobermory and a pontoon with little chance of dragging an anchor. Even then it was a long sail round, as we discovered hired sailing waterproofs aren’t waterproof,  although made much better by an entertaining evening in the Mishnish Inn courtesy of the owners of the rescued boat.

Next day we headed across Loch Sunart to Ardnamurchan.  This provided great sailing at first, but as we got further into the narrowing loch, we discovered our charter boat preferred not to go upwind in strong winds and it became rather exciting in a confined space.  We moored in a bay to visit Jo’s parents’ friends, again on a nice strong mooring buoy, and made the (in hindsight) silly decision to go ashore in dinghy.  The wind and waves stronger than expected meant that having got ashore, getting back to the boat was almost impossible and we had to stay ashore for the night and wait for winds to drop
in the morning to get back on board .

After the beautiful weather in the first part of the week, followed by the various excitements, the last couple of days provided some more traditional Scottish sailing, with wind, cloud and some sun. We spent most of the day beating along the Sound of Mull, but this was relaxing all the same.  The last day was sunny again, and with little wind, we drifted and played with porpoises for a hour or so.  Unfortunately, the drifting and associated motoring to get away from ferries and rocks meant that all the batteries were flat again.  We were rescued once more – an easy job this time as we were almost within spitting distance of the charterers.  We have concluded we had just been sailing too much, not using the engine enough and that electric windlasses are silly.