The rocky road to the Elan Valley

A weekend in mid Wales cycling and walking.

We had no idea where to go this weekend. At 3pm it looked like Norfolk, but a closer review of the weather suggested it might not rain all weekend in Wales. But as it looked like it would be cloudy on the tops, we decided to take the bikes over. Also, we had a cycling map of mid Wales and thought we ought to use it.  However, things didn’t go particularly smoothly – but what else could we expect on Friday 13th?

Half an hour later we were packed, and I was putting the bikes on the van. We then noticed that my cycle computer was missing. After half an hour of looking, we gave up. A trip to Tesco without a strict shopping list is always risky, but we managed and got away at around 6.

Driving through Melton Mowbray (only 20 mins from home), we stopped for fish and chips (our first of the year), to find the chippy packed. After some wait, we found the chips were closer to cardboard than potato, so gave up and got down to driving.

Coming through Birmingham, they have those nice big signs that tell you useful information. We were informed the A5 was closed immediately after the M42 junction that would allow us to easily go the other way. So we drove the long way round Birmingham to get on the M5 south.  Then we nearly ran out of fuel in the Borders, but managed to reach a petrol station in Bromyard just before it closed.

Eventually, after some tiny A roads, we got to Rhayader, and took our time finding the correct road out to our chosen layby, an idyllic stream-side location high up in the moors. After driving for some miles in thick fog with snow encroaching on the road, we found that our ideal layby had been converted into a building site for a new bridge. The back-up plan was a good half hour’s drive back through the fog, but was thankfully much more suitable – and in the morning we had the joyous revelation of finding a toilet block. One of our more civilised overnight stops – flat, quiet and only a few potholes to negotiate on the way in!

Anyway, it was raining in the morning, so a slow start ended with us heading off around 10 along a dirt track around Claerwen Reservoir. The cloud cleared slowly and the day got better as the track got rockier, ending in a ford across a not insignificant river. After several aborted run-up attempts through the gravel, Jo got up enough speed and got half way through before bailing and wading the rest of it. I was more successful in cycling through, but got just as wet as it was rather deep.  Soon afterwards, we gladly reached tarmac!

Wet feet aside, the descent into the Ystwyth valley was very fun with good views, starting in the middle of nowhere and gradually coming back into civilisation. At one point, a black cat darted out across the road in front of us, and shortly after Jo complained that her brakes weren’t working. Typically, I had left the Allen keys in the van, so we couldn’t fix them. Actually, I’m still trying to fix them 3 days later even with the correct tools.

Cycling up beside the Ystwyth river and through the old lead mines was fun, apart from the odd occasion where the road decided the best way wasn’t next to the gently inclined river, but up the steep valley side and back. It was very quiet though and great views, with some good information boards every few miles to add some context to the scenery.  Some chocolate rocky road (courtesy of Joe) was rather more appreciated than the literal version and powered us over the drainage divide back into the Elan valley.

Over the moors was very Scandinavian, with patches of snow and lochs (well, reservoirs). We also enjoyed the wildlife and got quite good at distinguishing red kites and buzzards. We cycled down past the three main reservoirs to arrive back at the van around 5pm. A great day out on quiet roads in some nice terrain.

Given the dodgy brakes and some very wet cycling shoes, we put the bikes away and spent Sunday climbing a beacon hill and walking along the Wales coast path near Aberystwyth. The sun was out and it was good to see the sea and snoop at Aberystwyth, although a distinct lack of ice cream vendors was noted.

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